So after 2 good upgrades to cut some grams we were gaining steam and cutting grams like a pro. Nothing can stop us now, right? Well….not exactly. As some people noted, my seatpost is sky high on this frame. That’s because Trek thinks standover height is important. To me, If I’m standing it’s not with a bike between my legs, it’s next to the bike holding a beer after a good ride, but Trek engineers didn’t ask me. So, when I put the Hylix seatpost in the frame it was RIGHT on the edge of the max line (minimum insertion still good on the frame). That is just something I was not comfortable to race right now, so I pulled that post and put back in the stock Bontrager Pro seatpost. BOO! Adding weight is exactly what we’re trying to avoid here, and that’s 89g back on the bike.
One step backwards, I weighed the bike and it’s now up to 24.03 pounds. Not bad, but we’ve got some work to do. Luckily I had a plan to get that weight back off the bike for the low low price of Free.99.
The Trek Top Fuel has a special Fox RE:Aktiv damper in the rear using proprietary technology from the Penske Formula 1 team. The idea is that it’s supple when you’re bashing through stuff, and firm when you’re putting power down. The Specialized Brain technology used in the Epic has a similar goal as well. While the Top Fuel comes with a dual lockout lever for front and rear from the factory, I had already removed the front remote lever function in favor of a Fox Fit 4 damper with a simple crown lever.
Over the last race season, I experimented with riding with the rear shock locked out or open, and I actually found out that I liked it better open in nearly every case. For me, the bike climbs better, sprints better, and feels more planted with the shock open. Combined with the fact that the damper is a 3 position damper but comes with a 2 position remote I just didn’t see the need to keep it around. A lot of people on the forums are replacing this factory 2 position remote with a real 3 position remote like this Fox 3 Position Remote, sometimes even using 2 levers to independently adjust the front and rear. Definitely something to consider if you like having the precise control at your fingertips. I didn’t.
So I decided to remove the Fox remote. Pulling that off and the cable housing was pretty quick, just loosen the cable on the damper and pull the internal housing through the frame.
I was pretty surprised when I put this on the scale. You wouldn’t think a plastic remote and a little bit of cable housing would be over a quarter pound, but the scale doesn’t lie: 118g saved for precisely $0.
A side benefit of this is that it really cleans up the cockpit, as well as removing the unsightly cable loop which has irked me since day 1 on the bike. Yes, it’s silly I know, but I think it just looks so much better with that removed. Right now I’m just running it open, however sometime in the future I’ll install the manual switch on the damper to be able to adjust it to all 3 positions if the situation requires it.
I put the bike back on the scale and knocked some dirt off from my test ride with the new Ashima rotors (they’re great BTW) and it’s down to 23.66 pounds now. Not too bad! With a couple more tweaks planned I think we’re well on our way!
|Hylix 31.8×400 Carbon Seatpost (eBay)||182g||89g||$54||$0.61 / g|
|Carbon 34.9mm Clamp (eBay)||12g||17g||$20||$1.18 / g|
|2x Ashima Ai2 Rotors||139g||84g||$40||$0.48 / g|
|Delete Remote Lockout||0g||118g||$0||N/A|
|Total||219g||$60||$0.27 / g|